Category: Uncategorized

If you are buying a house in Florida, a wood-destroying organism report usually arrives a few days before closing, often as a two-page PDF forwarded by a lender or an agent. Most people look for one thing, a checked box near the top, and stop reading. That is the part of the report that tells you the least.

The document is a standard state form, FDACS-13645, the Wood-Destroying Organisms Inspection Report, issued under Rule 5E-14.142 of the Florida Administrative Code (Florida Administrative Code, Rule 5E-14.142). Because every licensed company in the state fills in the same form, you can learn to read it once and use that skill on any report you receive. The wording quoted below comes from the published form; check the revision date printed in the corner of your copy, since the department updates its forms from time to time.

What the report is, and what it is not

The form says plainly what it covers. It is made “on the basis of what was visible and readily accessible at the time of inspection”. It does not cover areas that are enclosed or inaccessible, or areas concealed by wall coverings, floor coverings, furniture, stored items or insulation, or anything that would require removing or defacing part of the structure.

Two more limits are printed on the form itself. It is “NOT a structural damage report”, and it recommends further investigation by qualified experts of the building trade to determine the structural soundness of the property. It also states that the property was not inspected for any fungi other than wood-decaying fungi, and that no opinion is given on health or indoor air quality.

The organisms in scope are defined on the form: a wood-destroying organism is an arthropod or plant life that damages and can reinfest seasoned wood in a structure, namely termites, powder post beetles, old house borers and wood-decaying fungi.

Section 1: who inspected, and how to check them

The first section records the inspection company, its business license number, the date, the property and structures inspected, and the inspector’s name and identification card number. Those two numbers are worth a minute of your time. FDACS regulates and licenses the pest control industry under Chapter 482, Florida Statutes, and its Pest Control section is where the department points consumers who want to confirm that a company is licensed.

Look also at the line listing which structures were inspected. A detached garage, shed or pool house that is not named there was not covered by the report.

Section 2: the findings

The form labels this section “Consumers should read this section carefully”. The inspector checks one of two options.

• A. No visible signs of WDO(s) (live, evidence or damage) observed.
• B. Visible evidence of WDO(s) was observed, followed by three separate lines.

Under option B, each of the three lines answers a different question, and they are easy to confuse.

Live WDO(s)

Active organisms were seen. The inspector writes the common name of the organism and where it was found. This is the line that most directly calls for a treatment decision.

Evidence of WDO(s)

The form lists what counts: dead wood-destroying insects or insect parts, frass, shelter tubes, exit holes, or other evidence. Evidence tells you an organism was there at some point. On its own it does not tell you whether the activity is current or historical, which is why the next sections of the report matter so much.

Damage caused by WDO(s)

Visible damage was noted, with a description and location. Remember the form’s own limit here: the inspector is recording what can be seen, not measuring how far the damage extends inside the framing. If this line is filled in, the form’s recommendation to involve a building-trade expert applies directly to you.

Read the three lines together. Evidence with no live organisms raises a question about treatment history. Damage with no live organisms raises a question about repairs. Live organisms raise both.

Section 3: what the inspector could not see

This is the section most buyers skip, and it can change the meaning of everything above it. The form states that “NO INFORMATION on the status of wood-destroying organisms or damage from wood-destroying organisms in these areas is provided in this report.”

The inspector lists specific areas under attic, interior, exterior, crawlspace and other, with a reason for each. A report with “no visible signs” in Section 2 and a long list in Section 3 is a much narrower result than it first appears. A finished attic with no access, a garage packed to the ceiling, or a wall lined with built-ins can all hide the places where termites usually show up.

If something listed here could be made accessible, such as boxes that could be moved or a hatch that could be opened, it is reasonable to ask whether a follow-up visit can cover it before closing.

Section 4: previous treatment and the notice

The inspector records whether there was evidence of previous treatment and what was observed. The form adds an important note: the inspecting company can give no assurances about work done by other companies, and the company that performed the treatment should be contacted for its treatment history and any warranty or service agreement that may be in place.

In practice that means asking the seller which company treated the house, when, for which organism, and whether any agreement transfers to a new owner. The same section records where a Notice of Inspection was affixed to the structure and where it is located, and whether the inspecting company treated the structure at the time of inspection, with the organism, the pesticide and the method.

Anything written in the comments at the end of the report deserves the same attention as the checkboxes. That space is where an inspector can explain a finding or a limitation in plain words.

Questions to bring back to the inspector

• For each item under evidence, do you believe the activity is current or old, and what makes you think so?
• Which areas listed under Section 3 could be inspected if they were made accessible?
• Was evidence of previous treatment consistent with the organism you found?
• Would you recommend that a contractor or engineer look at any of the damage you noted?
• Were there conditions, such as wood touching soil or moisture against the foundation, that you noticed but that are outside the scope of this form?

That last question matters because conditions that attract termites are not the same thing as termites. Our article on conducive conditions around a Florida foundation explains what those conditions look like, and our termite control page covers what an inspection and treatment usually involve.

Questions homeowners ask

Is a WDO report the same as a home inspection?

No. The form itself says it is not a structural damage report and limits its scope to wood-destroying organisms that were visible and accessible on the inspection date. A general home inspection is a separate service with a separate scope.

Does “no visible signs” mean the house has no termites?

It means the inspector saw no live organisms, evidence or damage in the areas that were visible and readily accessible that day. It says nothing about the areas listed in Section 3, and the form states that it is not to be read as proof of absence.

Who can perform a WDO inspection in Florida?

The form is completed by a licensed pest control company and records both the business license number and the inspector’s identification card number. You can confirm the company through the FDACS pest control resources linked above.

What should I do if the report shows evidence but no live termites?

Ask about treatment history, both from the inspector and from the seller. If a company treated the house, its records and any service agreement are the most direct way to understand whether the evidence is old. If you are deciding whether to sign an agreement of your own afterward, our guide to questions to ask before signing a pest control agreement covers the terms worth settling first.

Buyers in North Florida ask these questions as often as anyone, and our Tallahassee area page describes how matching works in that part of the state.

Checking what is available in your area

floridapestcontrolpro.com is a connection service. We do not perform pest control and we do not employ technicians. If you would like to be matched with participating providers based on your service area, you can use the request options on this site. Availability varies by area and by season, and you decide whether to move forward with anyone you speak to.

Most people compare pest control companies on the wrong document. The sales conversation is where the reassurance happens, but the agreement is what actually governs the next twelve months: how often someone comes, what they are responsible for, what ends the arrangement, and what you are expected to do in return.

This is not about what a plan costs. It is about the terms, and about the questions that surface problems before you sign rather than four months in. UF/IFAS Extension published a homeowner’s guide to selecting a pest control service in Florida, and its central instruction is worth taking literally: “The key is to ask a lot of questions” (UF/IFAS Extension, ENY-2043 Homeowner’s Guide to Selecting a Pest Control Service).

Confirm the company is operating legally before anything else

UF/IFAS notes that illegal pest control operators are increasingly common in Florida and elsewhere. It also gives homeowners a way to check for themselves: the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services maintains a publicly searchable database of pest control licensees, and the guide walks through the search step by step. An operator working legally shows as active in that record.

The guide adds several things to observe during an in-person visit. The person should be able to present a state identification card on request, and give you a business telephone number and a business address. Florida requires all salespeople, office staff and technicians to carry that card. The guide also mentions a rule most homeowners have never heard: by law, the vehicle driven by the person performing the pest control work must not use magnetic signage, since only sales vehicles may do that.

One more question from the same source, and it is the sharpest one on the list: ask the person inspecting your home for the name of their certified operator in charge. UF/IFAS defines that person as someone who has passed a state examination in a specific pest control category and who supervises the technicians doing the work, and it says plainly that if the inspector cannot name that person, it should be a concern.

The inspection should come before the proposal

UF/IFAS is specific that recommendations and quotes should be based on an inspection of your home, and warns against companies that produce a proposal from the size of the house alone. A real inspection looks, in the guide’s phrasing, in, under, around, behind and on top of the places pests hide.

Two practical follow-ups. If you do not know how to recognize an infestation or the damage it leaves, ask the inspector to show you what they are looking at. And ask who will actually be at your door on service day, because some companies send a salesperson for the assessment and a different technician for the work.

Terms to have answered in writing

The guide lists the questions pest management professionals themselves suggest homeowners ask. Written down, they make a usable checklist:

• How long is the agreement, how often is service performed, and what is the stated response time between visits if something comes up
• What guarantees or warranty terms, if any, apply
• What will void the agreement
• How are service records kept, and can you get to them
• How does scheduling work, will anyone contact you to narrow the arrival window, and do you need to be home
• What is the company’s training policy for keeping technicians current
• Is the company a member of a recognized professional association

The question about what voids the agreement is the one worth pushing on, particularly for termite coverage. Conditions around the structure can affect a warranty: UF/IFAS notes elsewhere that moisture is a conducive condition that can void some termite warranties, and that irrigation aimed at a wall falls into that category (UF/IFAS Extension, ENY-2044 Termite Prevention and Control). Landscaping decisions made a year after signing can quietly change your position.

Ask whether the plan is built on integrated pest management

UF/IFAS suggests asking directly whether the company uses an integrated pest management approach, and describes what such a plan is designed to do: stop pests, inspect and monitor for pests, identify pests, and treat for pests only as needed. It adds two structural details. An IPM plan should include monitoring and prevention, with monitoring devices placed so that pest activity is detected rather than guessed at. And a good plan includes regular evaluation to determine whether it is working.

That last point is the difference between a service plan and a subscription. If nothing in the agreement describes how anyone decides the plan is succeeding, there is no mechanism for it to change.

How the product will be applied

The guide frames this in terms of exposure rather than chemistry: risk is related to exposure, broadcast applications carry the highest level of risk, and targeted approaches such as crack and crevice treatments or baits carry the lowest. Two reasonable questions follow from that. What application method is planned for your house, and is any cleanup of residue required afterward. UF/IFAS notes that required cleaning of residue should be rare when an integrated approach is used.

It also sets an expectation that trims a common request. Pest management professionals are constrained by law in how pesticides may be applied, and the guide states outright that they will not be able to accommodate a request to spray everything.

Ask what you will be expected to do

Preparation is part of the agreement even when it is not written into it. UF/IFAS lists the questions to raise before the first visit: what do you need to do to prepare the home, will you, your family and pets need to leave during the service, and if so for how long, and do you need to move furniture or turn off irrigation.

There is a longer-term half too. The guide lists home maintenance tasks that homeowners are commonly asked to follow up on, and they read as the homeowner’s half of a plan that works:

1. Seal gaps around doors and windows. The guide offers a test worth using: if you can see light through a gap from the inside, it is enough space to let in large cockroaches, other insects, spiders and even rodents and snakes.
2. Make sure irrigation is not directed at the walls of the home, since moisture encourages infestations and can affect indoor air quality.
3. Remove tree and shrub branches touching exterior walls or the roof, which rodents and ants commonly use as a route in.
4. Clear yard debris where pests harbor and breed, and eliminate or regularly empty water-holding containers.
5. Remove cardboard boxes, store books and paper in sealed containers, and keep food, including pet food, in sealed containers.

If a company never mentions any of this, that is information about the plan. UF/IFAS frames the relationship as a partnership and a long-term commitment rather than a transaction, and expects a professional to work with you on how the pests became a problem and how to prevent the next one.

Termites and wood-destroying organisms are a separate category

Florida licenses pest control by category. UF/IFAS lists general household pest control, termites and wood-destroying organisms, lawn and ornamentals, and fumigation, and notes that companies must have a certified operator in each category they offer. A general pest agreement does not imply termite coverage, and the two are usually separate documents with separate terms.

For structural coverage, UF/IFAS treats an annual renewal inspection as part of ordinary home maintenance, performed by someone trained to recognize evidence of termites and potential problems. Our page on termite inspections and what they look for covers what that visit typically involves, and the overview of rodent activity in and around a home shows why the general household category and the structural one often get discussed in the same conversation.

Before you sign

UF/IFAS keeps this part short. Make sure you have a written quote listing the services provided. Read and understand the entire contract, including all terms and conditions, before signing, and have anything unclear explained. Do not feel pressured to sign up for special deals.

Two questions of your own are worth adding. What happens if the pest is still active after the first visit, and what is the process for ending the agreement. Both are easier to ask now than to research later. If you are still deciding whether a plan is warranted at all, our comparison of doing it yourself versus hiring a professional is the earlier decision.

Homeowners along the central Gulf coast ask these questions constantly given the pest pressure there, and our St. Petersburg area page describes how matching works in that part of the state.

Checking what is available in your area

floridapestcontrolpro.com is a connection service. We do not perform pest control and we do not employ technicians. If you would like to be matched with participating providers based on your service area, you can use the request form on this page. Availability varies by area and by season, and you decide whether to move forward with anyone you speak to.

Bed bugs are the one household pest that has almost nothing to do with how a home is kept. They do not come up from the yard, they are not drawn in by crumbs, and they are not a sign that anything went wrong. They arrive on things people carry. Florida moves an enormous number of visitors, seasonal residents, students and second-hand furniture around every year, and that traffic is the whole mechanism.

Because of that, the two skills that matter are knowing how they travel and knowing where to look. Both are unglamorous, and both work far better when the population is still small.

They move on objects, not on their own

The EPA is direct about it: “Bed bugs are great hitchhikers. They can move from an infested site to a new home by traveling on furniture, bedding, luggage, boxes and clothing” (US EPA, Protecting Your Home from Bed Bugs). The same page notes that although they typically feed every five to ten days, they are capable of surviving several months to a year without feeding.

That second detail is the one people underestimate. A sofa that has been sitting in a storage unit, a suitcase that spent the off-season in a closet, a box of books from a relative’s house that nobody opened for eight months. None of those are safe by virtue of time passing.

Do not diagnose this from bites

Almost everyone starts here, and it is the least reliable place to start. EPA guidance states that “Bites on the skin are a poor indicator of a bed bug infestation,” because the marks can look like bites from mosquitoes or chiggers, like a rash such as eczema or a fungal infection, or even like hives. Some people do not react to the bites at all (US EPA, How to Find Bed Bugs).

Misidentification also costs time. Carpet beetles get mistaken for bed bugs constantly, and EPA points out that a wrong call gives an actual infestation more room to spread through a house or hitch a ride to someone else’s.

The physical signs that mean something

EPA lists what to look for when you are changing bedding, cleaning, or staying somewhere away from home:

• Rusty or reddish stains on sheets or mattresses, caused by bed bugs being crushed
• Small dark spots, which are excrement, and which can bleed into fabric the way a marker would
• Eggs and eggshells, roughly a millimeter across, and the pale yellow skins nymphs shed as they grow
• Live bed bugs

The dark spotting is usually the first thing a careful person finds, and it tends to show up in lines or clusters along a seam rather than scattered at random.

Where to actually look

Around the bed, EPA points to the piping, seams and tags of the mattress and box spring, and to cracks in the bed frame and headboard. That is the short list, and in a low-level infestation it is often the whole list.

If a room is heavily infested, the search widens considerably. EPA names the seams of chairs and couches, the space between cushions, the folds of curtains, drawer joints, electrical receptacles and appliances, the area under loose wallpaper and wall hangings, the junction where wall meets ceiling, and even the head of a screw. The reason it goes that far is a matter of size: “Since bed bugs are only about the width of a credit card, they can squeeze into really small hiding spots. If a crack will hold a credit card, it could hide a bed bug.”

Behavior that tells you where to search next

A few points from EPA’s summary of bed bug habits change how you inspect a room:

• They will readily travel five to twenty feet from an established hiding place, called a harborage, to reach a host. A nightstand, a nearby armchair and the baseboard behind the headboard are all inside that radius.
• They are primarily active at night, but if hungry they will seek hosts in full daylight. Daytime activity does not rule them out.
• Feeding takes three to twelve minutes, which is why people almost never notice it happening.
• They can survive and stay active at temperatures as low as 46 degrees Fahrenheit, and they die when their body temperature reaches 113 degrees Fahrenheit. EPA adds that killing them with heat requires the room to be hotter still, so that sustained heat reaches them wherever they are hiding.

That last point is worth holding on to, because it explains why leaving a suitcase in a hot car or a closed Florida garage is not a method. The temperature that matters is the one reached inside the object, sustained, not the one on the dashboard.

Habits that keep them out

EPA’s prevention list is short and mostly behavioral:

1. Check second-hand furniture, beds and couches for signs of infestation before bringing them into the house. Florida’s resale and curbside furniture market makes this the single highest-value habit on the list.
2. Use a protective cover that encases the mattress and box spring, which removes many hiding places. EPA suggests buying a good quality encasement that resists tearing, notes that a light-colored cover makes bugs easier to see, and advises checking it regularly for holes.
3. Reduce clutter, which reduces hiding places.
4. Vacuum frequently, to pick up anything that made it in.
5. Be careful with shared laundry facilities. EPA suggests transporting items in plastic bags, removing them from the dryer straight into a bag, and folding at home, noting that a dryer on high heat can kill bed bugs.

When traveling, the practical version is to inspect the luggage rack in a hotel room, keep bags off the bed and off upholstered furniture, and look at the mattress piping and the headboard area before unpacking. It takes about two minutes and it is the difference between finding a problem in someone else’s room and finding it in yours.

If you live in a multi-family building

Condos, apartments and duplexes make up a large share of Florida housing, and EPA has specific advice for isolating a unit: install door sweeps on the bottom of doors to discourage movement into hallways, and seal cracks and crevices around baseboards, light sockets and similar openings to discourage movement through wall voids. Those steps do not treat an infestation. They limit how easily one travels between units, which matters when the source is not yours to fix.

Why this one rarely stays a homeowner job

Nearly every other household pest gives you a fair chance of resolving it with cleaning, exclusion and patience. Bed bugs are harder for a specific structural reason: the hiding places are numerous, tiny and distributed across furniture, walls and fittings, and missing a small share of them lets the population rebuild. EPA’s own framing is that finding an infestation early, while it is still minor, is far less costly and far easier than dealing with the same infestation once it has spread.

If you are weighing what to attempt yourself, our comparison of handling a pest problem yourself versus bringing in a professional lays out where the line usually sits, and the guide to signs that a pest problem has outgrown a homeowner covers the general warning signs across pests.

Before anyone treats a room

Two things are worth doing first. Confirm the identification, ideally by keeping an actual specimen rather than a photograph. And write down where each sign was found, because that map is what an inspection builds on and it is far harder to reconstruct from memory a week later.

When comparing companies, ask each one to confirm license status and insurance coverage, ask how they will inspect rather than only how they will treat, ask what preparation is expected of you, and ask what happens on a follow-up visit. Bed bug work is rarely a single appointment, and how the follow-up is defined matters more than anything said on the first call. Homeowners and renters in the larger metro areas run into this most often, and our Miami area page and Tampa area page outline how matching works in those regions.

Checking what is available in your area

floridapestcontrolpro.com is a connection service. We do not perform pest control and we do not employ technicians. If you would like to be matched with participating providers based on your service area, you can use the request form on this page. Availability varies by area and by season, and you decide whether to move forward with anyone you speak to.

Hurricane season does not pass over a Florida home and leave the pest situation where it was. Wind and water rearrange the conditions that decide which insects and animals can live close to a house, and those conditions stay changed long after the last rain band clears. A yard that looked unremarkable in early summer can be holding half a dozen mosquito breeding sites and three new ways into the attic by the time the power is back on.

This is a plain walkthrough of what shifts around a Florida property after a storm or a stretch of heavy rain, what the extension and agency guidance actually says about each one, and what a homeowner can reasonably handle before deciding whether to bring anyone else in.

A storm relocates pests rather than removing them

Flooding and high wind displace colonies instead of wiping them out. Ground nests, mulch beds, tree cavities, woodpiles, storm drains and the crawl space under a shed all lose their shelter at the same moment. And at that same moment, the house gains new openings: a lifted soffit, a torn screen, a door that no longer seals against its frame, a roof vent that shifted a quarter of an inch, a soft spot in siding where water got behind it.

Displaced populations plus fresh gaps is the whole story of post-storm pest pressure. The pressure is not new. It moved, and it moved toward whatever is dry and intact.

Standing water becomes mosquito habitat

The most predictable change after a storm is mosquito breeding. Container-breeding mosquitoes do not need a pond or a marsh. They need water that sits still, and a storm hands them dozens of new containers.

The EPA’s homeowner guidance is blunt about the remedy: “Eliminate standing water in rain gutters, old tires, buckets, plastic covers, toys, or any other container where mosquitoes can breed.” It also asks homeowners to “Empty and change the water in bird baths, fountains, wading pools, rain barrels, and potted plant trays at least once a week to destroy potential mosquito habitats” (US EPA, Tips to Prevent Mosquito Bites).

Where the water actually sits after a Florida storm

• Gutters packed with stripped leaves and shingle grit, holding water instead of draining it
• Tarps and plastic sheeting over damaged roofs, windows or furniture, pooling in every sag
• Pool covers, grill covers, boat covers, and the folds of a collapsed patio umbrella
• Coolers, toys, wheelbarrows and plant saucers blown into new positions where they now sit level
• Downspout extensions, corrugated drain pipe and irrigation valve boxes that silted up
• Tire ruts and low spots opened by cleanup equipment in a saturated yard

Walking the property with a bucket, tipping and emptying as you go, is the single highest-value hour of yard work after a storm. It removes habitat rather than chasing adults that are already flying.

For water you genuinely cannot dump, such as a rain barrel you want to keep or an ornamental feature, the EPA’s Bti fact sheet notes that Bti, a naturally occurring soil bacterium sold in homeowner formulations, “can be used around homes in areas and containers where water can collect, such as flower pots, tires, and bird baths.” It acts on larvae, so it only does something in water that is already holding them.

If activity stays heavy after you have cleared everything you can find, our mosquito control overview explains what treatment approaches generally involve.

Rodents lose their cover and start testing the house

Rats and mice in Florida spend most of the year in exactly the places a storm destroys: palm crowns, dense ground cover, sheds, woodpiles, drainage structures, and the gaps under raised decks and outbuildings. Saturated ground and flooded low areas remove that shelter, and displaced animals move toward what is dry and elevated. A house, a garage and an attic all qualify.

What makes the post-storm window different is that the usual barriers are weaker at the same time. Displaced ridge caps, gaps behind torn fascia, screens pulled off soffit and gable vents, and separated flashing all create routes into an attic that were not there before. Add a garage door standing open through days of cleanup and debris piles stacked against the walls, and the invitation is fairly complete.

Reasonable steps once it is safe to move around outside:

1. Look over the roofline from the ground, ideally with binoculars, and note anything that moved or is missing
2. Re-close soffit and gable vent screens, and re-seal anywhere a pipe, cable or condensate line enters the wall
3. Pull debris piles, downed limbs and stacked wood away from the exterior walls
4. Get spoiled food out of the house and keep bins latched while collection is disrupted
5. Check the attic and garage for droppings, chewed insulation and rub marks along beams

Physical evidence in an attic usually turns up before anyone hears noise at night. Our page on rodent activity in homes covers what an inspection typically looks at.

Rain changes the conditions termites need

Subterranean termites are the background risk in Florida year-round, and a storm pushes several conditions in their favor at once. The UF/IFAS Extension guide Termite Prevention and Control is direct on moisture: “Wet walls create a conducive condition that will allow termites to thrive.” It tells homeowners to fix leaks, make sure water flows away from the structure, and direct air-conditioning condensate and irrigation away from the foundation (UF/IFAS Extension, ENY-2044).

After a storm, several of those go wrong simultaneously. Runoff cuts channels in the grading, mulch washes up against the wall, downspouts separate at the elbow, and roof or window leaks push moisture into wall cavities where nobody looks for months.

The same publication asks homeowners to eliminate wood-to-ground contact and to preserve a visible inspection band: roughly six inches of clear foundation, with plants set back about two feet from exterior walls. Storm debris, re-piled mulch and hastily replanted beds routinely erase both. Restoring that clear band is worth doing while you are already cleaning up.

UF/IFAS notes that termite swarmers emerge in spring, with a smaller flight sometimes occurring in fall. Discarded wings on a windowsill or around a porch light are worth writing down and photographing rather than sweeping away; see what happens after a confirmed termite swarm.

Ants move indoors when the ground saturates

Ant colonies nesting in soil, mulch or decaying wood react early. When the ground is waterlogged they relocate, and wall voids, slab edges, the space behind baseboards and the dry runs created by plumbing and electrical penetrations are all attractive destinations. Trails that show up indoors after heavy rain usually mean an existing colony moved rather than a new one arriving.

The response is unglamorous: dry the interior, cut the moisture source that drew them, and clear wet mulch and debris that is touching the house. Spraying a visible trail tends to scatter a colony into more entry points rather than fewer. Our notes on ants getting into Florida homes go through the usual entry routes.

Deciding whether to bring in outside help

A lot of post-storm work is straightforward homeowner territory: dumping water, closing gaps, hauling debris away from the walls. Some of it is not. An established rodent population in an attic, termite swarmers indoors, or water that simply will not drain off a lot are all situations where people usually want an outside opinion.

If you get that far, treat it like any other contractor decision. Ask the provider to confirm their license and their insurance coverage before anything starts. Get the scope, the target pest and the follow-up terms in writing. Ask what the plan is if the problem is still there after the first visit. Homeowners along the Gulf coast go through this every season; if you are in that area, our Tampa area page describes how the matching works there.

Checking what is available in your area

floridapestcontrolpro.com is a connection service. We do not perform pest control and we do not employ technicians. If you want to be matched with participating providers based on your service area, you can use the request form on this page. Availability varies by area and by season, and you decide whether to move forward with anyone you speak to.

Welcome to WordPress. This is your first post. Edit or delete it, then start writing!